Fixing the fixture, not just the drip
Faucet repair is the work of fixing a tap, valve or fixture that leaks, sticks, sputters or will not shut off. Most repairs replace one worn part, such as a cartridge, seat or washer, and the faucet is good for years more.
Sometimes the better call is a new faucet. We tell you which is which, and we explain it plainly. A fixture with a corroded body or discontinued parts costs more to patch than to swap. Swapping a faucet is simple work in many cities, but permit rules differ by town, so check the local standards before you start. The state plumbing code is Minnesota Rules chapter 4714.
Which fixture, which failure, repair or replace
This guide matches common fixtures to their usual problems.
| Fixture | Common failure | Repair or replace |
|---|---|---|
| Kitchen faucet. | Dripping spout, loose handle, weak spray. | Repair the cartridge or aerator. Replace if the body is corroded. |
| Bathroom sink faucet. | Slow drip, stiff handle, mineral buildup. | Clean or replace the cartridge. Replace if the finish is failing. |
| Tub and shower valve. | Drip at the spout, hot or cold only. | Replace the cartridge. Replace the valve if the body is damaged. |
| Outdoor spigot. | Leak at the handle, no water, freeze split. | Repair the packing or washer. Replace if split. |
| Utility sink faucet. | Leaking threads, loose spout. | Reseal or replace the faucet. |
| Supply stop valve. | Will not close, weeps at the stem. | Replace the valve. Seldom worth repairing. |
What to do when a faucet or valve won't stop flooding
A tap that will not close, or a supply valve that sprays, can flood a bathroom or kitchen in minutes. We answer the 24/7 line at night and on weekends, with same-day appointments when available.
Stop the water first, then call.
- Look for the shutoff valve under the sink or behind the toilet and turn it clockwise.
- If that valve will not close or leaks, shut the main water valve for the whole house.
- Open another faucet to relieve pressure in the line.
- Put a towel and bucket under any drip and move cabinet contents out of the wet area.
- Turn off power to nearby outlets if water has reached them, using the breaker.
- Photograph the damage for your records and call the 24/7 line.
Broken or failing supply valves
The little stop valve under a sink or behind a toilet is easy to forget until it fails. Old multi-turn valves seize with mineral buildup, and a forced handle can snap or leak at the stem.
Braided supply lines are another weak point. The woven jacket hides corrosion at the fittings, and a line can burst without warning. A burst line under a sink runs full pressure until someone closes the main.
The fix is a new stop valve or a new braided line, usually a short visit once the main is closed. Where several valves are stiff, replacing them together is smart. A bigger break in the wall is handled through our burst pipe repair service.
Faucet, valve and fixture repair in detail
Most faucet types fall into four families: compression, cartridge, ball and ceramic disc. Compression faucets drip when a washer or seat wears down. Cartridge and ceramic disc faucets leak when the cartridge wears or hard mineral deposits scratch it.
We shut off the water, remove the handle, pull the old part and match the replacement exactly. A new O-ring or seat can fix a leak in minutes. We then test the handle through its full travel, check for drips at the base, and clean the aerator so the stream is even.
If the faucet is a discontinued model with parts that cannot be found, we say so. Replacing is then the better money. Our plumbing installation crew can set a new fixture the same visit.
Shower valve and showerhead leaks
A showerhead that drips after you shut off the water often has a worn seal or a mineral-clogged cartridge in the valve behind the wall. A new showerhead with fresh thread tape fixes simple leaks at the arm. If water keeps flowing from the head, the valve cartridge is likely the cause. Replacing a shower cartridge usually needs a small access panel or removing the trim, not tearing out tile.
Tub spout and bathtub faucet repair
A tub faucet that drips or runs hot and cold at once has a failing cartridge or worn seat. The spout may also leak where it meets the wall, which lets water behind the tile. We check for that with a moisture meter. Replacing the cartridge or the spout is a routine visit, but a wet wall means more work.
A clogged shower or tub drain
Slow tub and shower drains collect hair, soap scum and sometimes a thin film of body oil. A drain that gurgles or backs up can be cleared with a small cable or a hand auger. If the clog sits deeper, drain cleaning with a drain camera and cable machine reaches it. Chemical openers can damage older pipe and make a later service call harder, so skip them.
Outdoor spigots and utility sink faucets
A hose spigot that leaks inside the wall in spring usually split during winter freezing. Water shows up when the hose is connected and pressure builds. Shut the spigot's interior valve if there is one, then call us.
Utility sink faucets in basements and garages see rough use. Leaks at threads or the spout base are quick fixes. We can also replace the faucet with a better one.
What happens on a repair visit
The routine stays short on purpose.
Find the cause
We look at the faucet, the supply lines and the stop valves, and test pressure at the tap.
Shut off and open up
Water to the fixture is closed, the part is removed and checked for wear, scale and damage.
Repair or replace
You hear the options and a clear price before work starts. Then we install the part or the new fixture.
Test and clean up
We run hot and cold, check for drips under the sink and leave the area dry.
What affects faucet repair cost
Small jobs have small variables. You get a clear price before work starts.
Sudden water damage from a failed supply line is often covered by a homeowner policy, while a normal drip or part wear is usually not. Read your policy and call your insurer.
Hard water and faucet life
Mineral scale builds up in aerators and cartridges and shortens their life. If you see crusty white deposits, test your tap water before deciding on treatment. We do not state a hardness figure for Minnetonka tap water. If testing shows high hardness, a water softener is one option. Minnesota Department of Health notes that softeners add sodium and that regeneration water ends up as waste, so the decision is yours.
We serve Minnetonka and nearby towns including Hopkins and Plymouth. Verify any plumber at the Minnesota DLI Check a License lookup.
Questions about faucet repair in Minnetonka
Yes, when a valve will not shut off or a supply line is spraying. The 24/7 line is open nights, weekends and holidays, and same-day appointments are offered when available.
If the body is sound and parts are available, repair is usually cheaper. If it is corroded, scaled or discontinued, replacement makes more sense.
Shut off the supply, take the handle off and replace the worn cartridge or washer. If the faucet is old or the seat is pitted, call a plumber.
Do not force it. Shut the main and call us. We replace the stop valve.
It may have split from freezing. Shut the interior valve if you have one and call us.
Yes. We match the cartridge to the brand and model, then test the faucet through its range.
Yes. We reseal leaking threads or replace the faucet.